Is Spain the next Australia?
Consumer choice in the wine market is staggering – there are seemingly endless choices to make: each vineyard site or wine growing region is unique, and once the variables of grape variety, vintage and style are factored into the equation, the number of permutations is mind-boggling. This is one of the most significant barriers to increasing wine consumption among the general population.
Wine producers and wine regions who succeed in making themselves easily understood are the only ones who have a chance of success. Champagne is a classic example – it’s all about luxury and celebration. Australia is another – a region that has developed a reputation for solid, good value fruit-driven wines.
Spain may well be the next success story in this vein. There are a number of importers bringing in interesting, flavorful wines at very attractive prices. These wines are produced in a modern, accessible style that consumers in export markets understand. Moreover, they are labeled in a way that is also easy to understand. Some of the more interesting include:
Rueda 2003, Las Brisas
This white (a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Verdejo and Viura) shows clean, pronounced aromas of fresh grapefruit on the nose. On the palate, the wine is crisp and direct, although fairly simple, with a modest finish. Quality is good, and, at $8.99 value is great. Imported by Jorge Ordoñez (13%)
Rias Baixas 2003, Nora
This Albariño from the northwest of Spain has peachy, floral fruit character and decent acidity on the palate, but is somewhat lacking in concentration. Reasonably good quality and value at $13.99. Imported by Jorge Ordoñez (13%)
Jumilla 2003, Wrongo Dongo
This wine, made from 100% Monastrell (known in France as Mourvèdre) could be called the Zinfandel of Spain. On the nose it shows overripe, cooked fruit character, and on the palate it is fat, soft and a bit sweet. Still, this is a popular category. Quality is fair, but at $5.99, the wine represents a very good value. Imported by Jorge Ordoñez
Rioja 2002, Sierra Cantabria
This estate-bottled Tempranillo from Spain’s most well-known region shows plenty of wood that obscures to a certain extent the earthy, leathery cherry fruit character of the nose. On the palate the wine was fairly light and soft – the quality here is not overwhelming, but it definitely represents good value for money on sale at $7.99. (13.5%)
Calatayud “ía” Garnacha 2003, Villaroya de la Sierra
Fairly light in color, but very aromatic, this wine has brambly, spicy, raspberry fruit on the nose. On the palate the wine showed fairly light body, generous alcohol, soft tannins, moderate acidity and length. The virtue of this wine is the very pretty fruit character. Good quality and at $7.99 great value for money. Imported by Hand Picked Selections (14%)
Rioja Reserva 1999, Muga
This estate bottled wine (70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha or Grenache, and 10% of the indigenous grapes Manzuelo and Graciano) shows ripe and soft cherry fruit with a healthy complement of American wood. On the palate the wine has fairly medium body, soft acidity, moderate alcohol and a modest finish. Decent quality, reasonable value at $11.99.
Rioja 2000, Allende
This 100% Tempranillo Rioja shows fairly ripe cherry fruit character with a pronounced earthy, gamey edge. The nose has more depth of fruit than many at this price point, and is less influenced by new wood. On the palate the wine shows good balance, with firm tannins, crisp acidity and good length. This is a good quality wine that is also good value at $15.99. Imported by Jorge Ordoñez (13%)
Toro 2002, Termes
This wine (from 100% estate bottled Tinta de Toro) has black, brambly fruit, but is fairly closed on the nose. On the palate it shows very good ripeness and is not lacking in structure. Good quality and reasonable value at $19.99. Imported by Jorge Ordoñez (14.5%)
Jumilla 2000, Las Gravas
This estate bottled, unfiltered wine, from 40% Monastrell, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Syrah shows reasonable red berry fruit but also some bell pepper notes on the nose. On the palate the tannins are fairly astringent and somewhat green. Length is moderate. The quality is good, but the value is fair at best at $24.99. Imported by Jorge Ordoñez (14.5%)
Ampurdan-Costa Brava 1999, Masia Carreras
This wine from 60% old vine Grenache, 20% old vine Carignan, 10% Tempranillo, and 5% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, shows very ripe, cooked fruit character on the nose. On the palate the wine has a soft structure, an almost porty fruit character, moderate body and fairly short length. Quality is fair and value is acceptable at $25.99. Imported by Jorge Ordoñez (14.8%)
Priorat 2001, Solanes
This wine shows a deep color and super-ripe fruit aromas with blackberry, plum fruit with notes of Chinese spices, licorice, and cherry pie notes. On the plate the wine was full boded and alcoholic, with fairly soft acidity, round tannins, a bit of residual sugar, and moderate length. In its style, this wine is high quality and, at $26.99, very good value. Imported by Europvin (14.5%)
Toro 2002, Numanthia
This wine (from 100% estate bottled Tinta de Toro) shows spicy red berry fruit on the nose, but is curiously lacking in concentration, either in the aroma or on the palate. The wine is lacking in depth and short. The wine shows reasonable balance, and is not flawed - quality is acceptable, but at $37.79, the value is nul. Imported by Jorge Ordoñez (14.5%)
Rioja 2001, Calvario
This single vineyard, estate-bottled Rioja from 90% old vine Tempranillo, 8% Grenache and 2% Graciano shows very ripe blackberry and plum fruit character with hints of licorice and spicy oak overtones on the nose. On the palate, the wine shows good tannic structure, balance and length.
Undoubtedly a high-quality wine, it is still relatively expensive at $49.99. Value at this price point must be measured against classified Bordeaux, premier cru Burgundy and cru Barolo for example, and at this level is a bit wanting. Imported by Jorge Ordoñez
The most successful entries to this market from Spain would appear to be those at the premium and super premium price points. From $6 - $16, the interesting offers are fast and thick on the ground. While there certainly are worthy wines above this price point, those buyers spending more than $20 should consider their options carefully.
