The Convivial Ape

There has always been a love affair between America and Italy.  Because of the number of Americans whose families are of Italian descent, the ties have always been close, and many cities in the U.S. have their “Little Italy” neighborhood, from Boston to Chicago to San Francisco.  Nowhere is this Italian influence more entrenched than the Arthur Avenue section of the Bronx, a neighborhood whose Italian roots go back to the 19^th century. 

The neighborhood is jammed with renowned restaurants and stores selling everything Italian, from groceries to clothes to furniture to music.  One of the great pleasures for me, though, is the treasure trove of Italian wine known as Mount Carmel Wines and Spirits, just across the street from Our Lady of Monte Carmelo. 

Italy as a wine producer is a country of great variety and quality that is in the midst of exciting change.  Proprietor Raymond Polanco is dialed into the source for the best of Italy at every price point.  Collectors will find the top wines at bargain prices, while those of us shopping on a less exalted budget will also find compelling wines on offer.  My wife and I took the subway up to Arthur Avenue on a recent Saturday and picked out a mixed case of delicious (and affordable) wines, including:

This wine shows bright red and black fruit on the nose with a fair amount of sweet oak and a certain minerality.  Developed secondary aromas such as cedar and lead pencil are just beginning to creep in.  The tannins on the palate are fairly soft, but the mouthfeel is agreeably plump, and the finish is good.  Great value at $16.99 (13.5%)  Imported by Winebow

Although the name doesn’t sound particularly Italian, my first acquaintance with Moris Farms was on a trip to Italy, where I saw it listed on every wine list.  I purchased a bottle of the SuperTuscan Avvoltore off the amazing wine list at Cul de Sac in Rome, and became a convert.  The 2003 Morellino remains true to the house style, with a medium deep garnet color and a ripe cherry/blackberry fruit character marked by sweet oak.  Perhaps because of the vintage, the aroma verges on jammy, although it never tips over the edge.  On the palate, the acidity is soft, along with the tannins, but the wine achieves its own voluptuous balance.  Moderate length.  Great value at $15.99 (13.5%)  Imported by Polaner

Aromas of ripe pear with delicate floral notes on the nose.  On the palate, the wine is creamy and rich, showing balanced acidity, generous alcohol, and lots of extract.  The wine has great balance and good length.  Tasted July 2006

This wine shows a plum fruit with notes of dark figs and prunes and a licorice/mint side that is very alluring.  On the palate the wine is full bodied and tannic, with plenty of acidity.  In spite of all the structure, though, it has a silky texture and very good length that shows a penetrating aroma of violets.  Very successful.  Tasted July 2006