The "13" grape varieties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Everyone loves to stump the expert, and perhaps because some find wine to be a complicated and intimidating subject matter, wine experts are often peppered with questions. “Name the thirteen grape varieties used in Châteauneuf-du-Pape” is one of the questions most frequent posed by those who like to play this game, particularly after a few glasses of wine. I’ve learned to be prepared. In truth, it is fairly easy to rattle off the thirteen. Perhaps even more interesting, however, is the fact that the question is not so easily answered.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the most famous region in the southern Rhône, and it is renowned for having “thirteen” varieties. Some, like Grenache, Syrah, Mouvèdre and Cinsault are well known and widely grown, while others are less familiar. These four often comprise the bulk, if not the entirety of the blend for the region’s red wines, and for this reason I think of them as the Four Major Black Grapes.
To these must be added Four Minor Black Grapes. Counoise is the first of these, a grape planted in significant amounts chiefly at Beaucastel. Jancis Robinson refers to it in Vines, Grapes and Wines as a sort of sub-Carignan, identical to Aubun. Muscardin is a variety that gives light but perfumed wines. Vaccarèse is rather tannic and peppery, and Terret Noir is light in body with crisp acidity.
These can be joined, even in the red wine, by Five White Grapes. Roussanne is the one with the most character and the greatest recognition. Clairette is widely planted throughout the south, and provides high levels of alcohol, but rather soft acidity. Bourbelenc and Picardan are grapes with a fairly neutral character. The final grape is Picpoul.
Picpoul is where the number of permitted varietals really comes into question. It is a grape allowed by the AC regulations, but the regulations do not say which type of Picpoul is permitted – Picpoul Gris or Picpoul Noir. At this point, the number could actually be fourteen. The confusion is further exacerbated, however, since Terret Blanc and Grenache Blanc are also planted alongside the Terret Noir and Grenache Noir. In Châteauneuf they are not considered separate varieties, although they certainly are in other appellations.
By now the number has risen, at least potentially, to sixteen. As always, the truth of the matter is somewhere in the middle. On the one hand, grapevines are genetically unstable, and variation exists within virtually all vineyards of a certain age. Perhaps a look at some other wine regions will clarify the matter.
The black grape varieties of Burgundy are Pinot Noir and Gamay, of course. True fans know, however, that many types of Pinot are planted in Burgundy. Pinot Noir itself has numerous distinctive clones, and there are also distinct varieties such as Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and what has been described as albino Pinot Noir, or Pinot Noir à Jus Blanc. Not quite as clear as we thought.
So how many grape varieties exist in Châteauneuf? Since we may never agree on the exact number, perhaps the safest solution is to stick with the lucky thirteen.
